Rontonar, the oil of nature
He takes care of the whole process. Miguel Ángel García is in charge of Rontonar, a small olive oil producer of three autochthonous varieties in Benifallim, Alicante. Above all, he defends absolute respect for nature and what comes from it. “I understand the soil as a living organism and that it has to work for me, just like the forest. This is why I feed the field with plants and organic matter”
How did Rontonar start?
I had worked in the graphic arts sector for 23 years and on the weekends, I used to go to my parents’ farm to work on the field. Seven years ago I changed my life because I was overwhelmed, I had no personal life. I took a break and trained for a few months. I was convinced that the agriculture in which I worked until that moment, had no future. In fact, it is already obvious that traditional agriculture has no future and generates a huge impact on nature.
How is your cultivation process?
I do regenerative agriculture. We are not certified as organic farming and neither do I want to because the seal is distorted. It is awarded to projects that deplete wáter for example. You have to interact with nature, taking advantage of the resources that it gives you with respect.
On our farm we have a spontaneous plant cover that varies from plants depending on the year, temperatura, humidity… it is covered to prevent it from becoming very powerful, we control it and cover the ground. It is like having a hat on the ground, imitating the functioning of the forest.
How is the landscape where you farm?
We work about thirty plots in the mountains of Alicante. Plots between 600 to 900 meters high. The largest is 2.5 hectares. Within the same plot, as it is not a monoculture: in addition to almond and olive trees, each of them has varieties.
Two weeks ago we started a project with the University of Alicante and a biologist is analyzing the biodiversity of 10 plots both in fauna and flora. I am also collaborating with an environmental foundation which is the one that is setting the guidelines and protocols for us to have a standard process.
Growing and making olive oil means a lot for you, right?
I try first of all to contribute to the environment, never to remove from nature. When I have cleared I have left small islands on the plot, and you cannot imagine the amount of insects that are seen. All the margins are covered with herbs and Grass, that are full of flora and fauna. The biologist who helps us discovers this and that.
You work with 3 native varieties. Tell us a little more about each one.
The blanqueta, originally from the town of Muro del Alcoy. It is a variety from approximately 1860. It is a very small and very productive olive. It gives a very smooth, silky and light oil.
The mançanella, a variety dates from around 1500 and it was taken by the order of the Hospital from Catalonia. In Spanish it is translated as “small apple” and gives a sweet, very dense, consistent and very fruity olive oil. It is an oil with more personality.
Finally, I work the alfafarenca, originally from the town of Alfafara. This variety is possibly one of the oldest on the Peninsula and is believed to have been brought by the Phoenicians. It is a minority, it is only present in the more inland areas of Alicante because this variety likes cold and makes a very consistent oil, spicy prolonging and pleasant. Those who try it are very surprised.
The farm can be visited, right?
Yes, now I organise the visits in the field because people get more involved and understand the field better. They see what’s behind it and when you taste that olive oil, you get a lot more into the role.
These are rare times, what are your goals in the medium-long term?
What I do is work to recover abandoned plots and small plantations. Maybe next year we will make a coupage.
Why did you decide to join Spainery?
Your experience in the foreign market caught my attention. For example, visitors from abroad are very surprised when they see our field. They value more our product than in Spain.
Here you can find Rontonar’s products.
